I have moved into the Woden valley. Good things about this include the fact that I have a wardrobe and my own bed for practically the first time in eight months, I can cycle home without having a stroke (I think), I can avail Westfield of its air conditioning and thickshakes, and – should I wish – I can sit on the couch in my pants without undue concern for the wellbeing of others. It’s not like I do that or anything…it’s just the idea that I could, if I really wanted to, that is so gratifying.

hills03Still, with every up there’s a down and I have lost mountain views. I have also moved into an area where there is a yappy dog. I only write about this now because I just heard it, again. I always seem to find myself in a neighbourhood with a yappy dog. I think everyone does. There seem to be yappy dogs everywhere these days, coming over here, taking our peace and quiet. They frequently pester me on Canberra nature walks too, usually roaming free because their owners don’t need to pay heed to the numerous signs regarding leads and wildlife protection and all that silly nonsense. Still, at least I can see the mountains on these walks, and the dog yapping can be tolerated with such rewards.

I love the view of the mountains even more than I really do love yappy dogs. Sure, they’re not in the same league as the gargantuan cones and precipices of Switzerland, but they offer a pleasing backdrop to Canberra, particularly as the sun fades and a long shadowy ridgeline contrasts with the purpling sky and flickering lights of comfortable suburbia. And while I can no longer see them from my dog-infested ghetto in the valley, there are numerous points near and far from which to admire the heights.

hills01Take Dairy Farmers Hill, which sits in the National Arboretum on the western fringe of Canberra. I cycled up here a few times in the past, but was usually too close to fainting to really appreciate the 360 degree panorama. Driving one evening with the comfort of air con was somewhat more agreeable. The sun dipping onto and over the Brindabellas offered a treat, while the proximate lumps of Black Mountain and Mount Ainslie received a farewell glow. There were no dogs.


The thing about seeing the ranges to the west practically every day is that you eventually want to strike out for them and almost lose yourself in their lumpy ridgelines and tangled bushiness. It must be how those buffoons who tried to get over the Blue Mountains felt, impelled by an urge to see what is on the other side (cows as it turns out, who figured going round the mountains would  be far easier). These days, buffoons have Subarus and can churn their way up dirt tracks in Namadgi National Park to see if there are cows on the other side.


hills07You don’t notice from afar, but these ranges are peppered with giant, rounded granite boulders stacked like clumps of frozen peas that have been left in the freezer for far too many years. These boulders congregate quite generously up on Orroral Ridge, where a series of slightly neglected tracks lead to rocks named for their resemblance to animals and people and other inanimate objects which aren’t rocks. Such is the profusion of rocks that geologists have wet dreams, climbers drool onto their harnesses, and random waifs and strays seeking mountain air delight in the summer coolness of virtual caves formed in the hollows of a cluster of boulders.


Cooling rock hollows would have been most welcome on a separate foray into the wilds of Namadgi. Technically it was autumn by the time I made it down into the Orroral Valley and struck out on a much better trail to Nursery Swamp. But so far autumn has produced unyielding temperatures in the low to mid thirties and love for my newly acquired air conditioning. It’s weather that is great for drying washing, but by time I had washed and then hung said washing out it was nearing midday, and only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

hills09I wasn’t expecting much from this walk – in truth it was something to do in a lull while my washing dried. Plus being practically the last remaining marked trail I hadn’t been on in Namadgi I felt a little obliged to complete it. The word ‘swamp’ was hardly enticing, with images of squelchy boggy plains, rotting carcasses and festering mosquitoes. But it was actually quite a delight, rising steadily through lofty Peppermint Gums, bypassing a few more giant boulders, and meandering through button grass and boardwalks under blue skies and fluffy clouds.


hills11The swamp turns out to be a fen, as the information board at the end of the walk explained. I’m not really sure of the difference, but it was fairly less swampy than I imagined. A bench here overlooked a river of vivid green grass, lapping at tall forest and rocky outcrops. Being now beyond midday it was the perfect place for a simple homemade sandwich and, once again, for all the expensive meals and gourmet plate ups*, can there be anything more satisfying than a bushwalk sandwich? I don’t think so.

Thus, even in the heart of these enduring mountains, with their magnetic heights and silhouetted ridgelines sit divine little glades like this. So, while the mountains can be marvelled at, the views readily lapped up, here’s to the valleys of this world; contented spots with a bit of simple tucker and lack of yappy dogs.

* On a complete tangent, I was in a cafe recently and someone ordered some “activated muesli”. WTF? Do they shake the muesli up in its box before serving? I noted a price tag of $14.50 to seriously activate your wallet.

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