There are times when you need a break. And there are times when you need a break. After many planned breaks that didn’t become breaks for varying reasons, I think me, Avery and the car breathed a sigh of relief parking up at an Airbnb just outside of Merimbula. And what a breath to take in, among this understatedly spectacular corner of the world.
I have written many blog posts over twenty years and a good handful would involve clumsily trying to convey the beauty of this area. Some of the images used are likely duplicates, captured across time. Maybe a little variation in weather or background or light, but always beguiling enough to want to record and share.
The Pambula River is a case in point. A bucket list item on almost every visit. Today bright but breezy and some of the water around the river mouth plump with rust-coloured algae. But I was heartened to see the pure, sapphire waters winning out, forcefully demonstrating the self-healing strength of nature and offering the idyllic photo scenario.

For all the familiarity there are still new pockets to discover. Like a good looking bakery in Pambula and a walk in the Panboola Wetlands. Here, an extensive and diverse patchwork of ponds and swamps and meadows and pasture. A few cows grazing, a few birds doing bird things, a few insects buzzing, unfortunately all too often competing with the sound of trucks trundling down the Princes Highway.
Noise of a different kind emanated from the ocean a few hours later. An epic conclusion to a short but exhilarating walk. At first sedate, offering wonderful overlooks of the coastline, taking in the smooth curve of Tura Beach. Avery likened it to Wineglass Bay and I can see what she means.

On the other side meanwhile, the wind was more penetrating, to the extent that hats would be blown off and coats puffed up like the Michelin Man and someone would drop a tissue and it would sail off on an adventure. Avery stood back in the shelter, immersed in a phone call. I inched forward, allowing the wind to embrace me, to take over me. Deep breaths and arms stretched, sucking in the world. A bit of a release and a bit of feeling very small.
There were much larger things in the bay, splashing and snorting ocean and leaping to great fanfare. Their thrashing of water reverberating like the first firework. Sound you can feel. One whale sauntered along quite close to the headland, a few others farther out. And then a bit of chatter, the eerie wail of whales, to continue to make you feel small and overawed.

Perhaps after such invigoration it is wise to wind down. To chill in the shelter of Bar Beach. Particularly appealing as the lowering sun warms the face and glistens off the water. Even a couple of seals decided it was perfect for a paddle. Nothing new, but worth repeating time and again.

And that was a good day, on a very good break. It’s the kind of time that makes you think about moving here, where every day would probably remind you that it is a blessing. Friends have done such, and while routines and run-of-the-mill life will distract, there is always the view of the sea, and the whales, and the sea eagles from the pub in Tathra.
And so, whilst we enjoyed the freedom and release that came from nature, the land and the sea, there was nothing more soothing for the spirit than chats in the pub with good friends. Breaking the circuit. Feeling the love.



















With time to spare I was happy to head that little bit farther, down to the far south coast of New South Wales. Perks of this journey include – to a limited degree – the striking, golden plains of the Monaro, baked hard and golden by summer sun; the midway bakery opportunity in inimitable Nimmitabel; the rainforest rim of Brown Mountain; and the panoramic view over the rolling cow-dotted Bega Valley, into which the road drastically plunges.
My base for three nights was Merimbula, handy in terms of size and facilities (i.e. food, coffee, picnic tables on which to work) and generous in its setting upon the shallow inlet and oceanfront. There is even an airport here with connections to Sydney, which does genuinely make you wonder about its feasibility as a site for sea change. A plane buzzed overhead the next morning, as I ventured out for an early walk through bushland along the inlet to Bar Beach. I could get used to these early morning walks, especially when a small but perfectly formed kiosk awaits besides the modest cove to offer up waterfront coffee.
The water here is quite ludicrously beautifully opaque, which probably helps for spotting sharks and giant stingrays. The only hazard this morning was mostly on the eyes, with a generous gaggle of cashed up baby boomers making the most of retirement by lumbering about in various states of undress. Understandably glowing and jovial – why wouldn’t you be facing yet another day in paradise – it may yet be too early for me to contemplate semi-retirement at the coast.
What followed over the next couple of days was a pleasing routine of waterside walking, working and wallowing in sand and sea. I explored every possible boardwalk in Merimbula and visited the ice cream parlour at least twice. Late afternoons in the mid to high twenties were perfect for attempts at beachside siestas, but the call of the outdoors and nagging feeling that I probably should be doing something more productive with this opportunity made me restless. I would wander some more or open my laptop for five minutes and stare at the screen as Windows decided to install countless updates yet again, before concluding that it was better to just stand in the sea and spy distant dolphins doing all the work.

In Eden, I love the shabby end-of-the-world outpost feeling. It’s a long way from Sydney and a long way from Melbourne, which means it generally only picks up on road trippers passing through and lost Canberrans seeking fish and chips. I have heard – along with countless other places – that it could have been the national capital instead of Canberra. And perched upon an outcrop overlooking beautiful Twofold Bay and the rising hinterland of the coastal ranges, one can only wonder what might have been.
Alas, the sheep paddock that eventually became the capital awaited the next morning. The good news was that I had – or will have – a home to go back there to, and some paperwork to sort out. I wasn’t going to rush – too much – and so took a final walk out to Bar Beach and a coffee to get me over the hills and far away. The boomers were of course there, semi-naked and just slightly self-satisfied, and I could see that I really wasn’t ready to join them for a while yet. But I would definitely be open to further remote working out-of-high-season breaks, just to soak up their paradise, their fantasy for a few more days close to the Pacific.